 |
Here’s a great write up from the New York Post - their travel writer Roberta Bernstein was absolutely amazed by the fabulous Marche Region and in a whirlwind trip, managed to cover a lot of ground.
ITALY’S LITTLE SECRET By ROBERTA BERNSTEIN
May 3, 2005 -- Next door to Umbria lies a region of olive groves, snowcapped peaks and Adriatic beaches - so why haven’t we all been there? ROBERTA BERNSTEIN discovers Le Marche.
IF you want to get knocked over the head with a bottle of olive oil, call Le Marche, a verdant, geographically stunning region northeast of Rome, the "new"Umbria. Not that you’d be wrong. Le Marche, like Umbria and its other famous neighbor, Tuscany, is an area dotted with vineyards and stone farmhouses, a place where each bend brings the sight of another walled, medieval village spilling off a hilltop. Here you also can traverse a snow field in the morning and, hours later, be eating lunch al fresco on the sunny Adriatic coast.
The problem?Its locals know that being the "new"anything could change its peaceful vibe.
Just three hours from Rome by train, the region extends from the Sibillini Mountain chain of the Apennine Range in central Italy to the sea. It was in many ways ignored by much of the modern world prior to the 1970s. (It, in turn, ignored the world; for instance, local farmers still used wooden plows and horses well into the 1960s.) Then scores of Italians and other Europeans "discovered" its coastal towns, turning them into a summer hot zone. (July-August is not the time for sun and sand here, unless you’re into wall-to-wall lounge chairs.)
No matter the time of year, just 15 minutes from the water, past a smattering of unfortunate industrial zones that litter the coast, you’ll be among just a handful of tourists wandering through farms, fortresses and castles, and then, further west, the where-is-everybody near-silence of the towering, scenic Apennines.
That Americans have yet to inundate this region is in part due to Italy’s long history of leaving Le Marche to itself - and the fact that locals like it that way. And while its rural and historical charms are extraordinary, compared with Tuscany and Umbria, there’s culturally less of note here. Pay attention, though, and you’ll come across enough gem-like works to satisfy those thirsty for art. There are also an increasing number of excellent restaurants popping up, as Le Marche’s chefs start to strut their stuff.
To best see the area, rent a car. Happily, the winding network of two-lane provincial roads is in excellent condition. (That is, save for the occasional mudslide in early spring. Do I know this for a fact? Yes, I do.)
Bottom line: When Italians from outside the region light up with pleasure and surprise when you tell them where you’re going (as they did time and again during a recent visit), you know you’re going somewhere special.
ANCIENT RUINS
I started out in Rome, driving straight to Ascoli Piceno - settled in the 9th century B.C. - the largest town in Le Marche’s southern end. Its outskirts were depressing, but its historical center, built from travertine, a light-colored stone, seemed to glow. Unwind in the magical Piazza del Popo at Le Caf‚ Meletti, where you can sip its famous anisette (Anisetta Meletti). From there, visit the area’s well-preserved ruins.
You can lodge in town, but better yet, stay 10 minutes away in Castel di Lama at the Palm House (its Italian name is Borgo Storico Seghetti Panichi). This family-owned country mansion features a beautiful garden, a chapel with 18th-century frescoes, a pretty pool and a fitness room. While views are marred by local industry down in the valley, you’ll still feel worlds away from everything (from 200; book through Cognoscenti, 44 1737 245725, c-italy.com).
UP THE COAST
The next day, inching my way north, I stopped in the coastal palm tree-lined resort of San Bendetto del Tronto.
Though locals rave about its beach scene, I found it crowded and, thanks to its nearby industrial center, unattractive. I high-tailed it inland to Ripatransone, a small, fairy tale- like walled town celebrating its 1,000-year anniversary. Stop at the Museo Civico Cellini in the Palazzo Comunale and then have an espresso at the cheerful Caffe Sammagno off the piazza.
Save lunch for nearby Monterubbiano where a nothing-looking trattoria, Pensione de Checco Risteranta, serves light-as-air pasta (Via Porta Marina, 3).
MEDIEVAL TIMES
The next two days were filled with exploration of the gorgeous south-central and central regions. My base was San Ginesio, another immaculate medieval village. (This one has both a convent and a surprising cosmopolitan edge.) It overlooks three valleys carpeted in sunflowers, olive groves and grapes during the summer. Eat at Terranostra, the main piazza’s brightly painted pizzeria, and enjoy some local specialties (Piazza Gentili).
Worth seeing in the surrounding area is Macerata, a midsize medieval town featuring the enormous Arena Sferisterio, now famous for its outdoor opera.
THE BIG CITY
To the northeast, smack-dab in the center of the coast, is Ancona, a bustling, sprawling port founded by the Greeks in fifth century B.C.
Though a bit grimy, it has its charms. Check out the 11th-century pink-and-white Cathedral de San Ciriaco at the top of Mount Guasco, from which you’ll have excellent views. At the port visit Mole Vanvitelliana, built in the early 1700s. It served as a quarantine station and now features exhibitions.
This is also the place for shopping - the region’s trendiest stores are here on Corso Giabraldi - and night life. For cocktails, try the hopping Bar Rosa off Piazza Roma, also known for its gelati.
NATURAL BEAUTY
Near Ancona lies the Conero Riviera. Part of Conero National Park, it’s perhaps the region’s prettiest stretch of coastline. A limb of the Apennines creates a steep, stunning backdrop to small towns and beaches, while on the cliffs’ other side is rolling farmland wihout any industrial zones.
Stop in Portonovo, where young visitors in the know take a steep dirt trail down to a secluded beach, and others lounge near a string of good restaurants and beach club-like spots. Eat at the pretty, airy La Capanina for excellent pasta and Adriatic seafood
If you want to stay on the water, check out the Fortino Napolenico, an old fortress that buttresses the water. It has a terrace restaurant with amazing views and an elegant interior with beautiful, stone- and brick-walled rooms (from 140 with breakfast; 39 071 801450, hotelfortino.it).
Also check out Numana, a seaside town high up on a ridge that overlooks a marina. For food, try La Torre, a modern, bright waterfront restaurant open to the sky and sea (Via la Torre 1).
It was possible to see the south-central region, as well as the Sibillini Mountains, while staying at the cheerful Villa Sibillini outside of San Ginesio’s walls. This renovated farmhouse is run by Pam and David Bates, who will make you feel at home while treating you like royalty.
The villa has comfortable, plain rooms, a beautiful patio and swimming pool, and stunning views of the valley. Plus, the Bates cook up a storm in its restaurant (from 83/night with breakfast, or rent the villa with staff from 3,225/week; 39 338 7013337, villasibillini.com).
THE LAST LEG
Inext headed north of Ancona to Senigallia and its environs. Though an active business center, Senigallia still feels like an old-fashioned resort. Hang out on the beach and splurge at Uliassi, whose innovative food is worth the higher prices (Banchina di Levante, 6; uliassi.it).
Lodge in town, or go to nearby Scapezzano. Here you’ll find Locanda Strada della Marina, a casual yet sophisticated country house with a great vibe, pretty rooms and an excellent restaurant (rooms from 180/night; locandastradadellamarina.it).
Walk into Scapezzano proper, a town you could blink and miss. Located on a ridge, it overlooks rolling farmland and the sea. Off a side street you’ll find the unexpectedly large, beautifully positioned Hotel Bel Sit (from 50/night; 39 071 660032, belsit.net).
From there I drove to the Grotte di Frasassi northwest of Senigallia.These fantastic caves are filled with stalactites and pools. (They’re also filled with tourists.)
I didn’t go much farther north except to shoot up to the university town of Urbino, a city that should be included on every first- time itinerary. One of the few places in the region that truly experienced a golden age during the Renaissance, it’s now a great mix of old and new. Highlights include the Palazzo Ducale (up Via Veittorio) and Museo Albani, with its Renaissance artifacts (Piazza Rinascimentale).
For lodging, check out Hotel Bonconte, a sweet hotel located within the town walls (from 125; emet.it/welcome/marche).
The following morning I got up early and headed back south to Sibillini Mountains National Park. This sprawling area of woods, green valleys carpeted in flowers, snowy mountains and lakes was depicted in 15th- and 16th-century Europe as a land of fairies and black magic, and is not to be missed. There are hiking paths and many people bike here.
A great picnic spot is beautiful Lake Fiastra, where you can buy high-end meets, cheeses and wine in the town’s small, exactingly well-stocked market (for more info on the park, visit sibillini.net).
Lowdown
GO: The gateway city for the region is Ancona - connecting flights are available from Rome and Milan on Alitalia (alitalia.com). The region is also easily reached from both cities by train or car in about three hours (raileurope.com).
GETTING AROUND: Rent a car to properly acquaint yourself with the area. Your best bet is the European-based Sixt, which offers great value on its fleet of compacts (sixt.com). There’s a location at the Ancona airport (check the Web site for hours).
INFO: le-marche.com
More Resources:
http://www.villasibillini.com/news/index.asp?content_id=24